Thursday 28 August 2014

Longford and back to Clare

Saturday 24th May:
Lovely to wake up at leisure today, and not have to be going anywhere.  Spent a quiet morning catching up with washing and sharing family stories with my hosts.

In the afternoon we took a drive to neighbouring county Roscommon, to visit Strokestown Park and Famine Museum there. 

Strokestown House

We had wanted to visit Strokestown last trip, but being October, it had already closed for the season, so it was high on my priority list for this trip.  Strokestown was the host site for the 2014 National Famine Commemoration which took place just a couple of weeks previously.  It had a particularly bloody history during the Famine, and the museum is now a fitting memorial to those who suffered there during those troubled times.

Newly erected Famine Memorial at Strokestown Park
May 2014
So much to see there.  The Museum itself is fascinating, but so is the tour through Strokestown House itself, and the beautiful walled gardens were magnificent. 

Sunday 25th May:
Another leisurely start to the day, before beginning the journey back to county Clare.  Said my goodbyes and departed late morning, after planning a leisurely days drive to Kilrush.
Leaving Edgeworthstown, I drove down through Athlone and on to Portumna at the top of Lough Derg.  Stopped a couple of times along the Lough before reaching Killaloe.  Beautiful area, and once again I found myself wishing I had more time available for exploring. 
 

Swans on Lough Derg

From there, I left the lake and headed west, stopping at Quin to visit Craggaunowen.  This amazing project explores the early history of Ireland, from the Bronze Age to Medieval times.
Entering the old castle to find a blazing fire in the hearth, and a woman in period costume busy with her spinning wheel immediately transported me back in time, resurrecting childhood memories of watching my mother at her spinning.
In the cool, damp afternoon, amidst the peace and quiet of the woods, I was certain I had stumbled across Sevenwaters!

Craggaunowen


This place was absolutely magical, even the air around me seemed green.  I felt like I was the only person left in the world and it was easy to imagine myself being back in ancient Celtic Ireland.
 
Another attraction there was the Brendan Boat, the leather-covered curragh in which adventurer Tim Severin sailed across the Atlantic Ocean to North America in the mid-70's, thereby providing evidence in support of the legend of St. Brendan's voyage in 489 AD. 
 
The Brendan Boat
                                                
The boat is housed in a specially built glass case, with panels describing the story of St. Brendan, and of Severin's voyage.
It was with reluctance that I left this beautiful place, as the staff prepared to close up for the day.

Then on to Ennis and finally arriving at Kilrush in the early evening, my destination for the last few nights of this adventure.  Crotty's Pub lived up to expectations as my "home" for the next 3 nights.  Located in Market Square in the heart of Kilrush, it provided a great base and comfortable accommodation.





 


Friday 22 August 2014

The Barrow Walk

Thursday 22nd May.
After a late night caused by the sounds of "Gangnam Style" and the like coming from the bar next door, I awoke to a slightly overcast but otherwise fine morning.  My plan for the day was to take a walk along the Barrow Way from Athy down past Ardreigh to another old mill at Levitstown, a distance of around seven or eight kilometres.  The Levitstown mill was also a Haughton mill at one time, owned by Frederick Haughton, a nephew of Alfred's.  There is nothing left of the mill at Ardreigh, but I wanted to see the area.

Ardreigh Mill 1861
from Sarah Haughton's sketchbook

The Barrow Way is a National Waymarked Trail extending a distance of 100 kilometres from Robertstown in northern county Kildare to St. Mullins in county Carlow. The trail follows the old tow-paths along the banks of the Barrow River and Grand Canal.

Cromaboo Bridge & White's Castle, Athy

I set off, first heading to the shops to get some lunch supplies, and as I walked over the Cromaboo Bridge, I noticed a canal boat tied up at the dock with a group of people standing around.  When I returned from the shop fifteen minutes later to begin my walk, the boat had gone.

I walked along the trail towards Ardreigh, enjoying the solitude of the morning.  As I approached Ardreigh Lock, there was the boat I had seen earlier, just about to navigate the Lock.  So an added bonus for me to see it in operation. 

Ardreigh Lock


I got into conversation with the boat owner, Clifford Reid, who was interested in my historical association to the Ardreigh area.  He was able to point out to me where the mill had originally stood, and directed me to the mill-race, which is all that remains to indicate the industry which once took place here.  After watching the boat pass through the lock and set off down-river, I wandered around the area and took a few photos.

Ardreigh Mill-race

From our previous trip to Ireland, I had been led to believe that the original Ardreigh House where Alfred & Henrietta lived and raised their family, was no longer standing, so I didn't investigate on this trip.  Unfortunate in the extreme, as I have discovered since arriving home that Ardreigh House is still standing and occupied by a local historian.  And here I was, standing within metres of it, and not knowing it!

So, off down the trail again.  Sections of the trail were well-maintained, while other portions were overgrown.  It was an easy walk, as the pathway is basically flat all the way.  Enjoyed seeing the birdlife and wild flowers along the banks.  I passed a couple of men on a fishing expedition, and a lady walking her dog, but other than that I had the trail to myself.





Arriving at Levitstown, there was the river boat tied up again, and the passengers enjoying lunch on the riverbank. They invited me to join them for a sausage and a very welcome cup of tea.  Turns out they were a group of men from the Athy Mens Shed on a day outing to Levitstown and back.

Levitstown Mill


After lunch, Clifford asked if I would like to travel back to Athy on the boat with them. Well, the boat clearly didn't travel very much faster than I could walk, but it seemed like a good opportunity to do something different, so I accepted readily.  Seriously, accepting a ride in a boat with 12 strange men is not something I would EVER consider doing at home in my ordinary life, but hey, that's what holidays are for!  And what a wise decision it turned out to be, because not 15 minutes along the way, the heavens opened and down came an absolute deluge, accompanied by thunder and lightening.  Very grateful for the shelter of the boat, without which I would have been one very wet and miserable traveller!

Back in Athy

Meeting up with Clifford proved to be beneficial in more ways, as he later sent me a copy of a photo he had of the Ardreigh mill, and also put me in contact with the local historian who now lives in Ardreigh House.
All in all, it was a very enjoyable and productive day!



Athy, co Kildare

Wednesday 21 May.
Athy was the home of Alfred and Henrietta Haughton, my Haughton great-great-grandparents, where Alfred owned the mill at Ardreigh, just out of town.  I arrived here around midday after driving up from New Ross in the morning.

I am sitting in the late afternoon sunshine on the banks of the River Barrow in Athy, co. Kildare.  Today has been a beautiful sunny day.  The otherwise peaceful scene was a little spoiled by the group of yobs and their dogs further along the bank, clearly a bit worse the wear from alcohol.  But they've now moved on and I have the space to myself.

River Barrow, Athy


I went out for a trip to the Quaker museum at Ballitore when I first arrived.  The museum is housed in the old home of Mary Leadbeater, who wrote "The Annals of Ballitore", published in 1862.  The book is available as an e-book via this link, and provides a wealth of information about the Quakers and their lives.  Mary's father, Alfred Shackleton, conducted a boarding school at Ballitore, where several of the Pilkington and Keane sons attended.
The museum was interesting and provided a good snapshot back in time.  I thought I had read that there were tea-rooms there as well, but apparently not, so en route back to Athy I stopped at Birrtown House, where I enjoyed afternoon tea and a wander through the beautiful Birrtown gardens.

Mary Leadbeater's home,
now Quaker Museum & library,
Ballitore

Information from a Haughton document I had researched stated that Alfred and Henrietta are buried in "the Athy burial-ground".  There are three cemeteries in the surrounds of Athy, and I really had no idea which one it might be.  I found St. Michaels Old Cemetery just down the road from where I am staying, so that seemed like a good place to start. On the site is the ruins of an old medieval church.

I wandered in, only to be confronted by row after row of seriously weathered and unreadable headstones, with the occasional legible one dating to the early 20th century, much too late for what I was seeking.  After wandering a couple of rows, I had decided that, without anything else to go on, my task was fruitless and settled for just soaking up the atmosphere.  As I turned to leave I sent a silent message - "c'mon g-g-granny, give me some help here" - and there not 20 metres along the path, with a beam of the late afternoon sun shining directly on it, at the base of a large yew tree, I found it!   A substantial granite headstone with an iron railing surround, and quite well-preserved in that the inscription was quite readable looking from side on, so that the lettering was highlighted by shadow.

 
"TO DIE IS GAIN" Phil 1:21

IN LOVING REMEMBRANCE OF
 
ALFRED HAUGHTON
25th May 1858
 
"PRESENT WITH THE LORD" 2 Cor 5:8
"COMPLETE IN HIM" Col 2:10
 
AND OF HIS WIFE
 
HENRIETTA
18 July 1878
 
"I SHALL BE SATISFIED WHEN 
I AWAKE WITH THY LIKENESS" 
Ps 17:15
 
 
 

 
After yesterday's experience in New Ross, I truly believe that my ancestors are helping me out (well, some of them, anyway!)

Monday 18 August 2014

New Ross

Monday 19th May.
Departed Dublin around midday, with a certain degree of anxiety about navigating my way out of Dublin onto the Naas Road.  A few wrong turns and back-tracking a couple of times, and I was away! I had wanted to do the 1916 Rising Walking Tour in Dublin at 11.30, but I was the only person who turned up for it, so it didn't go ahead, unfortunately.

I took a leisurely drive down to New Ross in county Wexford, arriving late afternoon, and looking forward to exploring the town the following day.
Today was our wedding anniversary, and I confess to feeling a little lonesome as I drove, for the first time wishing I wasn't travelling on my own.  Eating a solitary dinner washed down with a half-bottle of an Australian white didn't help ease the homesickness either! 


My interest in New Ross relates to the Elly family, Quaker merchants and ship-owners, whose life in New Ross began with my 5x great grandfather, John Elly (c1651-1733).  John Elly was born in probably Yorkshire, England.  He came to Ireland with his mother after his father fell in the battle of Worcester.  A second marriage in 1691 to Deborah Sandham founded several generations of Samuel, Sandham and Sarah Elly's.  I am still trying to sort out how many of each there were, and how they all connect.  But John's grand-daughter Sarah Elly (1761-1805) became my 3x great grandmother when her marriage to Henry Osburne M.D. of Cork, produced Henrietta, one of 7 children born to the couple.

Waterfront at New Ross


Tuesday 20th May
Awoke to a fine morning after sleeping in the most comfortable bed of the trip so far.  Big, old-fashioned furnishings and a soft bed and bedding at Innishross House - very cosy!


Innishross House, New Ross

First stop after breakfast was the Dunbrody Famine Ship & Museum.  The Dunbrody is a replica of a ship built in Canada for William Graves of New Ross in 1845.  William Graves was married to Sarah Elly, the niece of "my" Sarah Elly who married Henry Osburne.  William was formerly a business partner of Sandham Elly, my Sarah's brother.  Sandham and his brother Samuel were also ship-owners.  They and the Graves imported timber from Canada, and offered passage to emigrants on the return voyage. 

The Dunbrody is a working replica - that is, she is capable of sailing, and did sail when she was first built.  But as our tour guide pointed out, she can make a lot more money bolted to the dock, so doesn't sail anymore.  The tour and exhibition were really well done, they do a good job of portraying conditions as they would have been.

Dunbrody Famine Ship at New Ross

From there, just across the road to the Ros Tapestry Exhibition.  Wow, what an amazing project!  Fifteen large panels measuring 6x4 feet, worked in crewel embroidery with woollen thread, depicting the Norman history and founding of New Ross.  The project began back in 1998 and the last three panels are still being worked, but there were full-size colour sketches of those panels on display.  I was told the local church commissioned a tapestry to cover a damp patch on the church wall, and the project grew from there.  Unfortunately, not able to take photos of the exhibition, but check the link above.

Then came the highlight of the day.  I downloaded to my phone a map showing a historic walking trail around the town, and set off to walk it.
After viewing places such as the Tholsell, the Priory, remanants of the old city walls & gates along the way, I must have taken a wrong turning, because I found myself lost.  So while trying to get my bearings with the map, I suddenly found myself looking
at an iron gate set in a stone wall surrounding an overgrown plot of land.  As I looked at it, I suddenly recognised it from a picture I had seen on-line.  It was the old New Ross Quaker burial ground, where 24 members of the Elly family are buried between 1733 and 1845.  There is nothing marking it as such, and no sign of any markers in the long grass.

Quaker Burial Ground, New Ross
Walking back, I found the site where 'Elly Walks', the Elly family home, was located.  It is in an area known as Marshmeadows, which is now an industrial area.  The site is occupied by a transport company, and it looks like nothing remains.

In the afternoon the weather turned, and it began raining quite heavily.  I drove down to Hook Head Lighthouse at the entrance to Waterford Harbour.  The lighthouse was constructed 800 years ago, and has walls 12 foot thick at its base.  The tour through the lighthouse was very interesting.  Unlike other lights, this one was actually lived in by the light-keeper.
Hook Head Lighthouse

Saturday 16 August 2014

Dublin part 2....

The rest of Dublin passed in a blur.
A visit to the RCB Church of Ireland Library at Churchtown proved useful but not ground-breaking.  Not able to copy or photograph anything there, so a day spent scribbling frantically to get through the Kilrush parish registers.
A trip to the National Archives was not very useful - I did order copies of some wills.  It was only slightly less complicated ordering them in person than it had been trying to order them on-line from Australia.
More success in the National Library where I was able to access a bundle of letters in the Inchiquin papers collection, written by Thomas Pilkington (father & son) to Lord Inchiquin and spanning a period of about 30 years, to do with their occupation of Waterpark House.  The letters provided a fascinating insight into the personalities of those involved.  Not too sure about this, but I think the form I had to sign to access them prevents me from disclosing the actual information contained.  Suffice to say there was quite a bit of dealing going on, as well as the slightest suggestion of blackmail!  Now this is the stuff that makes our histories interesting!!

A little bit of shopping in Dublin for the obligatory Irish presents for the family at home filled a couple of hours, as did a walk through the Georgian section looking for addresses familiar from letters to Australia 100 years and more ago.


13 Hume Street,
home of Richard & Henrietta
(Pilkington) Tweedy in 1904. 
114 Lower Baggot Street,
home of Robert & Anna Mary
(Pilkington) Griffin in the 1850's to 1870's



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On Saturday I visited Mt. Jerome Cemetery (and here for cemetery records)at Harold's Cross, and located the group of family graves there, in a very old and run-down part of the cemetery. There are five family members representing 3 generations who are memorialised on one headstone over what may be a double plot.  Whether they are all actually buried there or not I don't know.  I'm still getting my head around the Irish tradition of remembering people on headstones even if they are buried somewhere else!


Grave of 3 of my grandfather's siblings, his mother & grandmother
Anne Pilkington (nee Keane)
Mary Pilkington (nee Haughton)
Mary Edith Pilkington
Annie Lilian Pilkington
Francis Conyngham Pilkington

The next day I visited Glasnevin cemetery, which was just a short walk from where I was staying.  What a contrast!  Glasnevin was beautiful and very well maintained.  I did a cemetery tour which had been recommended by my landlady.  It was very well worth it - as well as being very entertaining, it provided a great insight into the lives of the historical figures buried there and their part in Ireland's long struggle for independence.  My visit coincided with celebrations to mark the bicentenary of the birth of Thomas Davis, one of the founders of the Young Ireland movement, and also the Annual Commemoration of the death of Daniel O'Connell. Even though I had no personal connection to anyone buried there, I really enjoyed it.  Also had the best bowl of seafood chowder ever, in the Glasnevin café!


Celebration to mark bi-centenary of the birth of Thomas Davis,
one of the founders of the Young Ireland movement.


A walk through the beautiful National Botanic Gardens which are adjacent to Glasnevin completed the afternoon, and my last day in Dublin.

Dublin part 1...

The drive to Dublin was easy, as I took the motorway which has speed limit of 120klms. I had planned to take a more scenic route, but leaving later than intended, I took the most direct route instead.  Driving in Ireland is no problem at all, and the coding of the roads - M=motorway, N= national route, R= regional route, L=local road - with fairly standard speed restrictions for each, make it very stress-free.  Plus, unlike home, Irish drivers for the most part seem to be happy to share the road with everyone (and everything).

Only one small hiccup the next day - received a message from my husband at home telling me the bank wanted to speak to me about a possible fraudulent transaction on my credit card. They wouldn't give him any details, so I had to call them.  The item at issue was the €2.40 electronic toll fee which I had paid on-line.  So my short trip on the tollway into Dublin ended up costing me around $30!

I arrived in Dublin about 6.30 pm on Sunday, finding my accommodation at Botanic View B&B in Glasnevin, without too much difficulty.  This was a great location just north of the city, bus stop almost at the door and just 10 mins into O'Connell St.  Also not too far to walk, about 25 mins, which I did on a couple of mornings.  The area was also well-served with pubs, restaurants and take-away food outlets, so was very convenient for me as all within a few minutes walk.

My purpose in Dublin was to visit the National Library, National Archives and Church of Ireland library, looking for records relating to our family history.

Monday morning got off to a slow start due to difficulties with my Irish SIM card in my phone.  After only a few days, I couldn't make any calls - apparently out of credit even though the card I had purchased was for unlimited calls for a month.  After 2 hours of on-line chat help with O2, finally sorted - just needed to change a setting in my phone and I was back in touch with the world.  I then set about establishing some contacts in Dublin.

First was a coffee date with Margaret Gallery, with whom I had been in email contact.  Margaret and I have a mutual connection via the Stacpoole family.  Additionally, her Kenny family succeeded the Pilkington family at Cragleigh in the mid-1820's, so we have some shared research interests. We met up at a little coffee shop not far from the National Library, and Margaret had also invited Paddy Waldron and Colin Keane.  Colin is a 4th cousin of mine, a descendant of Francis Nathaniel Keane of Hermitage.  He is very knowledgeable on all Keane family matters and has a large collection of family memorabilia.

The following day I had lunch at the National Library café with Tom Pilkington's cousin Gail.  Gail is currently studying a genealogy course, and had offered me any help I needed negotiating the library and archives.  Her connection to Tom is via his mothers family, while mine is through his fathers side.

In the evening I had the absolute pleasure of meeting Tim and Aine Haier.  Tim is also a 4th cousin, or more correctly a half-4th cousin, if there is any such thing.  His great-grandmother, "Old Susie" who features in Fred Pilkington's diaries and family letters, was a half-sister of my great grandfather.

Tim and Aine had lots of information to share about Kilbaha, Kiltrellig and the connection between the Haiers and the Pilkingtons.  Tim has lots of memories of growing up in the area, where his dad ran the pub which was originally Susie's (c1867), and is now the Lighthouse Inn.  He recalls playing in the stables at Kiltrellig and being sent up to Miss Annie with messages, telegrams etc.  The Haier family purchased Kiltrellig after Aunt Annie died.  It was a thoroughly enjoyable couple of hours spent with them.

Finished off the day in Hedigan's Brian Boru pub, just across the road from my B&B, enjoying a whiskey and some traditional Irish instrumental music.




Tuesday 12 August 2014

County Clare - Day 6 & 7: Kilbaha

Saturday 10th May
Woke up very snug in my bed this morning and decided to stay put for a while.  The weather outside was atrocious, rain and blowing a gale.  To say nothing of COLD!!!  Goodbye to any plans for today - I had hoped to visit the lighthouse, but no point in this weather.

Up later, and a quick trip out to the car (brrrr!) to bring in my books and laptop.  I set myself up on the dining room table in front of the heater and spent a lovely day working on family history and doing the finishing touches to my presentation for Kilrush & District Historical Society.  What better place to write about family history than in this place which has played such a part in it?

The little wood heater took the chill out of the air, but by late afternoon it was cooling off and I found a single bar radiator which I set up near my feet.  What I would have given for my nice warm slippers!  Pip and Karen arrived in the evening and we spent a couple of hours over a meal and a chat.

Sunday 11th May
Quite sunny this morning for a change, but still cool and windy.  The sun porch at Kilbaha was a great spot to enjoy breakfast and a morning cup of tea.

Loop Head Lighthouse


Up to the Loop Head Lighthouse after breakfast - clear enough for a spectacular view right across the Shannon to the Kerry mountains.  Did the lighthouse tour, and had a quick walk around the perimeter before returning to Kilbaha.  I stopped by the Kiltrellig graveyard, just to get the feel.  Mary Anna(Pilkington) Griffin died in 1887, and her son Bob Griffin who died at Kiltrellig in 1904 are both buried either there in the graveyard, or just over the fence in the adjacent Kiltrellig land.  Family diaries confirm their burials, but there is nothing there to mark exactly where.  The cemetery backs onto Kiltrellig so it provided a view over what would have been the home paddocks and a good idea of what the outlook from Kiltrellig Lodge over the Shannon estuary would have been like.  Kiltrellig Lodge was the summer residence of the Pilkington family, built by Thomas Pilkington in  1834.  It became the permanent family home for the unmarried Pilkington siblings after the death of their parents in 1884, and remained the family home until the death of the last of my grandfathers siblings, Annie Pilkington, in 1961.


Kiltrellig Lodge c1950

 The house was in a state of disrepair at the time of Annie's death.  The story goes that as the house became more and more dilapidated, she would just close it off room by room until at the end she was living in just 2 habitable rooms.  It was eventually demolished.

I then met up with Pip and Karen again, and Pip took me for a walk around the cliff tops, past the ruins of Doondahlin, to the Turret and the Rock pool.  The scenery really is spectacular.
 
Cliff-top view

The Rock Pool


The Turret - built as a smoking house for the men of Doondahlin

After our walk, we met up with Seamus and Ailish Connolly, friends of Pip's who live with their young family just a short way up the road from Kilbaha cottage. Seamus knew all about Kiltrellig and the Pilkington's, mentioned Miss Annie and Miss Edie, even though both they and the house would have been long gone before he was even born!  Enjoyed a cup of tea at their house, and heard about Ailish's plans to open a gallery with a friend.  This is now up and running as Kilbaha Gallery & Crafts, which also incorporates a heritage centre named for a local identity, Henry Blake.

It was difficult to tear myself away from their hospitality, but the drive to Dublin wasn't going to get any shorter, so eventually I made my goodbyes and left.


Kilbaha & Kiltrellig
Kilbaha cottage at left.  The two single storey buildings on the right are the Kiltrellig cottages and are still owned by family connections.

Monday 11 August 2014

County Clare - Day 5: West Clare

Friday 9th May
Today dawned bright and sunny, but not for long.  I said goodbye to Ennis after a wonderful few days here.  I paid a visit to the Clare Museum, Ennis Friary and a quick look at a few shops, then out to the Sandfield Centre, home of birth, marriage & death registrations.  I wanted to try and get some historical certificates, but had only limited success, as the certificate I particularly wanted could not be found.

Moving on, I drove out to Kilrush, around the town and out to Cappagh with its view across to Scattery Island.  Unfortunately, Scattery opens to the public for the season on the 29th May, the day after I leave, so visiting there will have to wait for another trip. 

Then out to the Vandeleur gardens - the woods of the demesne were beautiful but the ravages of the winter storms were evident with a line of big trees uprooted.  The Vandeleur family were one of the biggest land-owning families during the 18th & 19th centuries. Their home, Kilrush House no longer exists, and the walled gardens are all that remain of the estate.  The  gardens & surrounds were lovely, having been restored and dedicated to those people who were evicted from the Vandeleur estate.



Leaving Kilrush, I headed to Kilkee and on to Kilbaha, where I met up with Pip, Karen and their little girl.  Pip is my 3rd cousin, twice removed.  (or for those who can't follow the "removed" bit, he will be a 5th cousin of my grandchildren when and if I have any!)  After a cup of tea and a chat, they brought me up to Kilbaha cottage.  Virginia and I had stayed there with Pip's parents when we visited 7 years ago.  It was lovely to be back in the old place again, the scene of so many family gatherings over the past 160 years.  The original single story cottage was given to my 2x great- aunt, Mary Anna Pilkington, on her marriage to Robert Griffin in 1851, by her uncle Marcus Keane.  The cottage has had a couple of extensions over the years, and apart from a short period of about 8 years, it has remained in the family ever since.  The cottage has changed a little since my last visit - now painted white rather than the natural stone, with a new roof, and a new wood heater in the dining room, but otherwise still the same nice homey feel.



County Clare - Day 4: The Burren.

Thursday 8th May
After the past few days of damp, drizzly weather, I was hoping we were due for a fine day for my hike in The Burren, which I had previously arranged with Mary Howard of Burren Guided Walks.

But it was not to be! I awoke to heavy overcast sky, mist and rain.  The plan was to meet with Mary at Fanore at 10, so ever-hopeful, I left Ennis in plenty of time. Stopped at Ennistimon along the way to pick up some lunch supplies and received a text from Mary suggesting we delay our start until 11 in the hope of clearing weather.  So I spent a little time in the car at Fanore beach looking out over the white-capped ocean and wishfully wondering if that really was a break in the sky, or just my imagination.

By the time I met up with Mary at 11, the rain had ceased but still threatened. She told me the other 4 people who had booked for the day had cancelled when they saw the weather.  Luckily for me, Mary was still happy to proceed, so clad in wet weather gear we set off and spent an amazing 6 hours wandering over the Burren.

The Burren is a limestone karst landscape covering around 250 square kilometeres in the north of county Clare.  It is known for the range of vegetation which flourishes in the micro-climate provided by the unique rock formations.
Mary was very knowledgeable and informative regarding the geology, archaeology, agriculture and botany of the region.  The wildflowers were beautiful, but the strong winds made photographing them almost impossible.



We climbed gradually to Cahir dun Eirghius, an ancient ringfort, at which time the weather changed for the worse, with fierce winds and sleety rain, the mist obscuring the horizon completely.  After discussing the options, we decided to continue and made our way up a series of natural terraces to the summit.  The wind made the going difficult and I was grateful for the stout hazel stick and the gloves supplied by Mary.
Cathair dun Eirghius


At the top we were rewarded by the much hoped-for break in the weather and clearing skies. Although still a little hazy, the view was magnificent, stretching from Ballyvaughan all the way across Galway Bay to Galway, the Aran Islands and right around to the Cliffs of Moher, as well as looking down on the Burren landscape.


A short stop for lunch in the shelter of the cairn built on the top, then off again for the descent down through Poul Brainan.  This is a large sheltered grassy basin forming a natural amphitheatre, probably created long ago when an underground cavern system collapsed.  The area is criss-crossed by ancient stone walls which outline the settlements of people long ago.
Poul Brainan


Climbing again out of this basin, the remainder of our walk followed farm tracks back to our starting point, arriving around 5pm after a thoroughly enjoyable and worthwhile day.

County Clare - Day 3: Ennis & surrounds

Wednesday 7th May
Today turned out to be amazing, and I am so indebted to Larry Brennan for making it so.
Firstly, Larry arranged for me to have a tour of Waterpark House, courtesy of caretaker, Kieran Walshe.  The building was mostly empty as council were in the process of vacating.  Although the original interior was completely removed and redesigned to suit council requirements when they took possession in 1989, Larry's expertise in the building industry meant he was able to point out to me the locations and size of the original rooms.

Waterpark c1904

Then & Now

Waterpark 2009

















Waterpark was the home of 3 generations of my Pilkington family, from the mid-1820's until 1893.

If that wasn't enough, Larry then took me on a tour to see Hermitage - one of the Keane family homes - and out to Newpark House to meet Declan Barron, a co-collaborator on the Waterpark book.  Declan runs Newpark as a B&B.  It is a magnificent old home, and it was so wonderful to see it in use, a sharp contrast to Hermitage which, although occupied, is falling into disrepair.

Hermitage was the home of Robert Kean, Clerk of the Peace for county Clare for 30 years prior to his death in 1830.  The home eventually passed to his nephew Francis Nathaniel Keane who was resident there in the 1850's onwards.

Hermitage, Ennis, co. Clare

Then the absolute highlight of the day was a trip out to locate the remains of Beechpark, the Keane family residence and childhood home of my 2x great grandmother, Anne Keane, before she married Thomas Pilkington in 1819.

The ruins of Beechpark were very impressive.  Although completely overgrown with foliage and tree roots, it was still quite evident what an imposing old house it must once have been.

 Beechpark House 2014

 
Beechpark Gatelodge 2014

With thoughts of Paddy Casey's bull (see the section headed "Fitness" in the attached link)  foremost in my mind, Larry led me across the fields of Beechpark in search of the private burial ground supposed to be there.  We found neither bull nor burial ground, and after taking a few photos, we left Beechpark and went out to Kilmaley cemetery, which is where the Keane family vault is located.   According to records in Charlotte Keane's journal, this is the resting place of most of the Beechpark Keane family.

Dodging rain showers, we then headed back to Ennis via Drumcliffe cemetery, where I found the Pilkington graves to have significantly deteriorated since my previous visit 7 years ago.
Pilkington graves, Drumcliffe Old Cemetery, Ennis, 2007